How do I order?

There are two ways to order: on the website or by phone.
 
Web Orders:  Click on Orders
 
Phone: Call 503.970.0547 between the hours of 9am-5pm PST.  photosynthesis needs to know three things: Size, Wrap and Edits (if you need extra image editing).  See more on all of this on the Orders page, Size page or Options page.

What kind of digital file should I upload?

photosynthesis accepts all of the most common file formats like JPG, TIFF, PSD and RAW. As a general rule of thumb, as long as you shot an image with a digital camera that is 5 MPs or better, than you should be in good shape.

What's the best size image to upload or send?

 The best  image is always going to be the largest possible file size. This would be a RAW file, which is a digital negative from cameras that shoot in RAW, usually DSLR or higher end cameras.
If you don't have a RAW image then the next best image is a PSD, JPG or TIFF. 
At a minimum we need a 2MB image that is preferably at 300DPI or higher.
If there ever is a problem, we will always contact you via phone or e-mail.

What the heck do MB, MP and DPI stand for?

A megabyte (MB) refers to the file size of an image.  This is how much hard drive space it takes up on your computer.  If you see any image that has a K after it, that means it is less than 1MB. Usually cell phone images are less than 1MB.
A megapixel (MP) is 1 million pixels, and is a term used not only for the number of pixels in an image, but also to express the number of image sensor elements of digital cameras or the number of display elements of digital displays. For example, a camera with an array of 2048×1536 sensor elements is commonly said to have "3.1 megapixels" (2048 × 1536 = 3,145,728).
Dots per inch (DPI) is a measure of spatial printing or video dot density, in particular the number of individual dots that can be placed in a line within the span of 1 inch (2.54 cm). The DPI value tends to correlate with image resolution, but is related only indirectly.

How large can you blow up images?

This is one of the most frequently asked questions that we get, and ultimately there is no simple answer.  It's best for us to look at what you have and then we can tell you the possibilities. The short answer is we can blow up just about any image to various sizes. Below are some keys.

Size does matter:  The larger the file size in both MB and DPI  the easier it is to blow up.  For example: If we receive a 4MB image at 72 DPI then it can be enlarged, but if we received the same image that was 4MB image at 300 dpi, we have more flexibility and can blow that up much larger and with more detail.

Always use original:  We often get images that are either the thumbnails or the e-mail client has downsized the image so that you are sending a smaller file size.  We always need the original that is directly from the digital camera, that is what works best. It has the most information and is the largest file size.
 

Going Bigger: We also have the ability to make images bigger using a software program that works inside of Adobe Photoshop. If we take an image to it's largest size and we need to go bigger, we then we use a program in Adobe Photoshop called Perfect Resize (formerly Genuine Fractals), by OnOne Software. The results are amazingly good.

What if I don't have a digital file but only a traditonal print?

If you are comfortable scanning it and own a scanner then read on, but you also have the option of sending the traditional print to us as well.  If you have a flatbed scanner at home, you  should have some options on how to scan.  First try to scan in 8 bit or 16 bit color (if that is an option, if not just chose RGB). Then think about how large you want the image to be.  If you are taking a small image, say a 4x6, and want that blown up to a 20x30, then you should scan at 100% at a very high resolution, 600dpi.  This high resolution will allow us to easily take the image to it's largest size.  Usually the rule of thumb is to just scan at 100% in RGB mode at 300dpi.  We can reproduce most sizes with that file.
If you can't scan your traditional image at home you can take it to a FedEx-Kinko's and they might be able to scan if for you.  You should call first to see if they offer that service at your local branch. If you don't live near a Kinko's try your local camera shop.

Can you reproduce artwork as well?

Yes, as long as you can provide a digital file of artwork we can reproduce it.  Artwork can be scanned if small enough or it can be digitally photographed.

Do I need to worry about copyrights on artwork?

Absolutely. Anything that is the intellectual property of someone else, you need to get the rights to reproduce their images, and usually you must pay for the copyright release.
However, you DO NOT need to worry about images that are part of the public domain. 

What can I do with images shot by a professional photographer?

If you want to use an image that was shot by a professional photographer then you need to have a copyright release from the photographer, essentially his or her permission, for you to reproduce their image. Anything shot by a professional is the intellectual property of that individual and thus you may have to purchase the right to reproduce his or her image. You must obtain/purchase the release before we will make your image on canvas.

Can you fix old images that are badly torn?

Yes we can.  We restore old images but keep in mind our restoration services are $60 per hour and are billed in 10 minute increaments.

How long should my image last?

Lucia inks that are used in our Canon printers are archive inks that are quoted by Canon as lasting up to 200 years.  So let's just say they'll last a couple of lifetimes.

How long does it take photosynthesis to make photo on canvas?

The whole process usually takes only 2-4 days. The first day we synthesize your image, that is we make it look it's best and lay out the wrap option.  The second day we spray the image with a UV clear coat protectant. Not only does that block out harmful UV rays, but it brings a nice gloss back to the image. The third day the image is mounted on the frame and ready to go!

What is the best way to clean my canvas art print?

Every Giclée we produce is coated with a UV protectant. This also protects the inks from water damage as well. You should dust your artwork regulary with a dry feather duster, but if you need to clean better than a dusting, you can use a damp cloth.

sRGB vs Adobe RGB

Adobe RGB 1998 and sRGB IEC61966-2.1 (sRGB) are two of the most common working spaces used in digital photography. This section aims to clear up some of the confusion associated with sRGB and Adobe RGB 1998, and to provide guidance on when to use each working space.

Background

sRGB is a RGB color space proposed by HP and Microsoft because it approximates the color gamut of the most common computer display devices. Since sRGB serves as a "best guess" for how another person's monitor produces color, it has become the standard color space for displaying images on the internet. sRGB's color gamut encompasses just 35% of the visible colors specified by CIE (see section on color spaces). Although sRGB results in one of the narrowest gamuts of any working space, sRGB's gamut is still considered broad enough for most color applications.

Adobe RGB 1998 was designed (by Adobe Systems, Inc.) to encompass most of the colors achievable on CMYK printers, but by using only RGB primary colors on a device such as your computer display. The Adobe RGB 1998 working space encompasses roughly 50% of the visible colors specified by CIE — improving upon sRGB's gamut primarily in cyan-greens.

 

SUMMARY

My advice is to know which colors your image uses, and whether these can benefit from the additional colors afforded by Adobe RGB 1998. Ask yourself: do you really need the richer cyan-green midtones, orange-magenta highlights, or green shadows?  Will these colors also be visible in the final print?  Will these differences even be noticeable?  If you've answered "no" to any of these questions, then you would be better served using sRGB. sRGB will make the most of your bit depth because it allocates more bits to encoding the colors present in your image. In addition, sRGB can simplify your workflow since this color space is also used for displaying images on the internet.

What if you desire a speedy workflow, and do not wish to decide on your working space using a case-by-case method?  My advice is to use Adobe RGB 1998 if you normally work with 16-bit images, and sRGB if you normally work with 8-bit images. Even if you may not always use the extra colors, you never want to eliminate them as a possibility for those images which require them.